Stop your Dog from Jumping on You and Others

For dogs that jump up we have to think that a dog will do what is rewarding, if its good he does it, if it is not good he does not do it. Simple as that.

When a dog jumps up, do not be aggressive and knee, simply hold him up by his front paws and in a loving voice tell him you love him. He has jumped up so you react by holding him up. Do not let him down, keep him up as long as you can. By keeping him up, I mean stretching him up, and up and keep talking. He will then start to mouth your hands, then and only then drop him down. Do not place him, drop him.

When he is on all four legs which God gave him, love him to bits, cuddle and talk. Then encourage him to jump again, he might well try, as soon as he does grab the paws and repeat the whole exercise.

It is important to get the timing right, it is important that the whole family learn. Your dog will learn in a few minutes that to jump will make you react and he will not find this rewarding.
Its easy, simple and kind..

Training an Adult Cat to take a Bath!

Cat´s don´t like water; that is a well known fact. However, any cat can be trained to tolerate a bath. Use this method once a day, every day, and at the end of a month, you should be able to give your kitty a full bath without too much trouble.

First, the water must be warm, because a cat´s normal temperature is higher than humans. A hot bath for a human is a normal temperature for cats. If the cat shivers, the water is too cold; if he pants, the water is too hot.

Second, choose a location that has a flat surface, so the cat will feel secure that he can stand easily. Add a towel or rubber mat to the bath surface so the cat won´t slip, creating more panic.

Third, start with just enough water to cover his feet. For the first week, just dunk his feet into the water and immediately pull him out and dry his feet. Then give him plenty of treats and special attention.

Gradually increase the depth of the water, and the amount of time you ´dunk´ him. Always give him treats and special attention after the ´bath.´

Finally, use only enough water to get him wet and rinse him; usually no deeper than his ´knees.´ This should be enough water to give him a bath, without creating the panic of trying to swim. Also, don´t leave his feet in the water unless you have to. Allowing him to stand on dry land (like the back end of a bath tub) will decrease his discomfort and make him easier to control.A note of caution: don´t use a sprayer, this will cause panic in the cat. Instead, use a plastic cup or glass to pour the water over his body.

Plastic Bowl Problems

About Pet Food Dishes - You probably know that pets want you to clean their food bowls after each meal, and that you should not use dishwashing liquid, because they dislike the smell. What you might not know is that plastic bowls always retain some ´old food smell´. A dog or cat will notice, even if you don´t. They´ll refuse to eat out of this bowl for no apparent reason. Therefore, invest in some porcelain bowls and make sure they are dishwasher safe. When washing bowls in the dishwasher, rinse again once the washing cycle is finished for best results.

How to Stop Cats from Fighting

Cat Behavior Problems - The occasional cat fight is expected in multiple cat households, because cats are territorial.

However, when aggressive behavior becomes the norm, you can take steps to stop it.

These are some cat training tips I use, and a few more from Friskies cat food: Identify the aggressor and victim, then separate the cats when they can´t be supervised. Give the aggressor corrective measures, and the victim rewards.Corrective measures can include: confinement in a less attractive space; place a collar and bell on the aggressor; squirt the aggressor with a water sprayer during agressive acts. For the victim give rewards such as free roam of the house, plus edible and affection rewards.Gradually increase the supervised interaction, rewarding good behavior and using corrective measures against cat agression

Keeping Your Dog Safe During the Holidays

Christmas, New Year's, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa and all the celebrations the holidays entail pose safety problems for dogs. Aside from the overexcitement and confusion caused by too many guests, there are purely physical problems.

• First, the food. A dog can over indulge in holiday foods causing gastrointestinal upset or possibly even toxicities - such as chocolate or grape/raison toxicity.
• Second, consider your holiday tree. Trees can be knocked over. Needles can be swallowed. Bulbs and ornaments can be broken and subsequently ingested or stepped on. Electrical cords can be chewed. It is ideal to keep your pet away from the tree. A baby gate may be an effective way to separate your dog from the tree. Allow supervised visitations only until you are comfortable with your dog’s behavior around the tree.
• Third, consider your holiday decorations. Tinsel is dangerous - especially to cats however it can also be dangerous to dogs. If a pet swallows it, it can block intestines, causing decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, listlessness and weight loss. Treatment may involve surgery. Use unbreakable bulbs. You may want to keep the lower branches that are within reach of your dog bare. Avoid edible and fragile ornaments. Avoid wire ornament hooks that can easily snag an ear or a tail, or, if swallowed, can lodge in the throat or intestines. Instead, fashion loops of yarn, ribbons or thin twine.Next, the gifts. Dogs can chew on or swallow small parts; plastic items can be easily broken and swallowed, too. Gift-wrappings can be dangerous to a pet's health: String and ribbon can cause obstruction of the small bowel if swallowed.
• Lastly, take special care with candles, fireplaces, space heaters, wood-burning stoves and fireplaces can cause burns if animals get too close. Candles are a great attraction for pets, but don't leave them alone in a room with a menorah or candelabra blazing-the swish of a tail can be disastrous.

-- Dr. Jon, Pet Place

Controlling Hairballs

Hairballs are more of a problem in longhaired cats than short. Hairballs are caused by too much hair in the cat´s stomach from their own grooming.

Although there are many different remedies, preventative health care measures are essential:

• Daily brushing is the best tip to prevent cat hairballs, especially during the warm months of the year.
• If your cat´s pattern of coughing up the occasional hairball changes, take your cat to the vet to find out why.
• Feeding your cat or kitten Iams or Science Diet´s Hairball Control will work wonders.

Is your dog digging?

Is your dog digging? Try putting cayenne pepper in the holes - they don't like the sensation when they go back to dig again.

Metal Bowls - NO!

Using metal water dishes outside in winter may be a risk, because your pet's tongue could stick to the frozen metal. In the summer medal bowls can get very hot, and burn your dog.

Separation Anxiety

A dog demonstrates separation anxiety in many ways. While you're gone, or preparing to leave, your dog may:

• Destroy things
• Lick himself excessively
• Urinate or deficate inside the house
• Whine or bark continuously
• Hyper-salivate
• Pace obsessively
• Refuse to eat when you're not around
• Greet you excessively when you return home
• Be restless or depressed as you prepare to leave

A dog's level of anxiety can vary. But with Separation Anxiety, his behavior when you're away is consistently different from his behavior when you're around.

Keep him calm and collected. Any dog who demonstrates these symptoms should be taken to a veterinarian with a strong background in behavioral medicine. When a diagnosis of Separation Anxiety is confirmed, several treatment strategies may be put in place:

1. Control the dog's environment. A busy dog is a satisfied dog. Give him something to do-such as a fun treat that requires some time to eat-and he may not be as concerned that you're gone.
2. Shift his behavior. Don't punish him for feeling anxious, that may make things worse. Try these suggestions: Avoid playing with him prior to leaving the house. Practice graduated departures. Go through some of the steps associated with you leaving the house several times per day, but don't leave. Practice departure exercises. Go out two times per day for 10-15 minutes each time. He should be taught to sit (or lie down) while you go toward the door, step outside and remain for a short period of time. Increase your time away gradually so he gets used to you going - while feeling reassured that you will return. The goal is to teach him that he can be obedient and relaxed when you're not there. Practice independence training. During day-to-day routines, such as watching television, instruct your Dachshund to stay some distance away instead of allowing him to sit in your lap or be touching you. While you're out, provide soothing music or a television at a low volume. To an anxious dog, silence can be deafening. Make sure not to make a big deal when you leave or come home. Ignore your dog for 10-20 minutes before leaving and after arrival - as difficult as this may be, it works. Don't reward clingy behavior. Ignore your Dachshund if he follows you around or demands attention. And reward him when he lies quietly.
3. Medicate. There are prescriptions that may help ease your dogs anxiety. Consult your vet for full details and options.

How to Stop your Dog from Pulling on the Leash

Here is the elusive answer to the ever present question of HOW DO I TEACH MY DOG NOT TO PULL?

Don't walk forward if there is tension on the leash.
When the dog is about to apply ANY tension to the leash at all .... Immediately stop. Be a tree.

When the dog turns to see what happened to you, praise for his attention .... and encourage the dog back into heel position next to you - if necessary, take a few steps backward.

As long as the dog is in the magic spot next to your leg, continue praising, give food rewards, make it the best possible place in the world to be. If he loses concentration and is about to put any tension on the leash at all, stop without warning and repeat the above sequence.

DO's and DON'Ts When Introducing Kids and Dogs

DO:

• Ask the owner for permission to pet the dog. Even if the dog looks friendly, ask first!
• Approach the dog slowly and gently, and allow him to sniff your hand before you pet him under the chin.
• Be careful around injured dogs. Injured dogs may bite out of fear or pain. Ask an adult for help.
• Stand still and be calm if a dog approaches you.
• Stay away from stray dogs.
  

DON'T:

• Don't run towards a dog or throw your arms around it. Remember to approach slowly and always ask the owner for permission to see the dog.
• Don't tease a dog or throw things at it.
• Don't try to take food or toys away, or bother the dog when he's eating.
• Be careful when he's sleeping, too; he may be startled if he is woken up suddenly.
• Don't pet a dog by reaching through a car window, a kennel, or a fence. Likewise, don't pet dogs in the back of a truck. Many dogs are nervous or protective and may bite.
• Don't assume that every dog is friendly just because it's tail is wagging. Ask the owner if it's okay to pet the dog.

How to Deal with Car Sickness in Dogs

The first thing to realize when dealing with car sickness is that in 95 percent of cases it is stress related and not motion related. The most powerful memory imprint of any dog's brain is probably the car ride when it was taken away from all it ever new to be safe and secure, its litter mates and its mother. The most traumatic memory a young dog has is in relation to a ride in a car. So it's not surprising that subsequent rides in a car should evoke very strong mental and subsequent physical trauma.

The solution is very simple. If the dog has been sick in a car then estimate how long it was in the car before it was sick, say 20 minutes? Find a park about 5-10 minutes from home, preferably one just around the corner, even one within walking distance that the dog has been to before.... but this time drive there. Ideally have someone else in the car too, to soothe the dog and distract him from the ride. Keep him happy all the way to the park. When at the park do all the enjoyable things that the dog loves, fetch the ball, chase the Frisbee, frolic with dad, etc. The stay at the park doesn't need to be that long.... just as enjoyable as possible. Then drive the dog home soothing him all the way again and when home make just as much fuss of the dog as you did at the park. Finish the session with his meal or a treat if time and conditions permit.

This exercise is repeated several times a day or daily if time is limited. Once the dog is enthusiastic to go in the car then the length of the trip is lengthened slightly to 10-15 minutes etc. Once you can drive with the dog for 30 minutes with no signs of stress or anxiety then you have the problem pretty much licked. Some dogs may take a little longer than others. The idea is for as many happy repetitions as possible to overwrite the initial mental imprint the dog has from its youth (or whatever other event caused the initial trauma).